BRONKHORST
DEVENTER
John was not up to going to Delft on Sunday but felt that we could do something close by - and the sun was shining brightly! So, we decided on the little city of Bronkhorst - said to be the smallest city in Holland (170 inhabitants). It is a very short distance from Doesburg - if we were cyclists - we could have pedaled there. There wasn't much to do - just a few shops, a chapel with an art exhibition, a little Dickens museum and some cafes. But it was a nice little walk through the town and a little different architecture to admire. Just outside of Bronkhorst we found an operating windmill and stopped to take a look. They continue to grind various grains on a regular basis and sell the flour. However, I believe the man said they only operate on Saturday - I guess Sunday was just for the tourists.
Windmill near Bronkhorst |
Back in Doesburg, we decided to have lunch at De Waag. John ordered ravioli while I decided to try their hamburger accompanied by a glass or two of Warsteiner (German beer). I suppose we could have tried a local brew but we'll do that another day. We also order one small bowl of Mustard Soup - it was very unusual - I didn't care for it much but we finished it - not high up on our list of favorites. The hamburger was interesting but very different from what we are used to. It tasted like meatloaf and had a fried egg on top - good, but not really a hamburger to me. The fries, however, were outstanding - crinkle cut, thin and crispy - too delicious with mayo for dipping! I don't want to think about the calories (so I won't) but at least, I ate the hamburger and left the bun behind. As mentioned in a previous blog post, this building is the oldest continuously operating public space in Holland. John enjoyed his ravioli.
De Waag hamburger |
Monday, we thought about a trip to Delft or the Kroller Museum but when I check into hours, etc. for various options, it turned out that Monday is kind of a day off from tourism. All the museums seem to be closed on Mondays and we noticed that shops don't open until after lunch on Mondays. But the day was again sunny so we chose a little journey to Deventer - not too far from here - about a 45 minutes drive.
Deventer is another medieval Hanseatic city on the Ijssel. We had no trouble finding it as the signage and street markings in Holland are excellent. And, traffic is not bad either. Even the narrower 2 lane roads have a nice shoulder so that you can pull over to let someone pass.
In Deventer, we crossed the bridge into the city and immediately went on to a ring road and found a parking lot at the edge of the old city. In fact, it was right next to the big gothic church: Lebuinskerk - Protestant and originally started by a missionary monk from England - Lebuinius in the 8th century. The current church is enormous and grand with a beautiful main organ and a smaller one at the other end of the nave. The aisles on both sides of the nave are extra wide. The windows are huge and let in lots of light making this much lighter inside than most large churches we've visited. We were lucky to find this church open because the other big church in town is closed on Mondays. We took in the whole church with its old paintings on the walls and monument markers for those buried under the church from very early times. There was the usual gift shop near the entrance with books, postcards, etc. as well as honey cake. We needed some coins to put more money in the parking lot machine so we bought a honey cake. This type of cake has been made in Deventer for 500 years. The purpose of using honey was so that the cakes could be taken on sea voyages without spoiling. We haven't tried it yet - we'll let you know how it is later.
Side Aisle of the church |
From the church we headed out to the rest of the city center with its large plazas and many pedestrian streets. It was lunch time so we selected a nice looking restaurant - all the tables and chairs were outside on the street. It was interesting to see all the customers sitting at their tables facing directly into the sun and none of the umbrellas were open. We arranged our chairs just the opposite since we normally try to avoid getting too much sun but we can certainly understand why the Dutch need to grab all the sun they find - especially on a cool but brilliant sunny day like today.
Our waiter spoke a little English so gave us some assistance in translating the menu. I did not need help because I spotted Caesar salade met kip - Caesar salad with chicken - one of my favorites. John ordered something which we were not sure of but it turned out to be a sausage and a fritter made of mashed potatoes and ground meat (maybe) along with french fries and mayonnaise. The Dutch put mayo on the fries instead of Ketchup. My salad, however, was a big surprise because it was nothing like Caesar salad as I know it. The only similarity was the lettuce. It was delicious but here is what was in it besides the lettuce: pineapple chunks, tomatoes, walnuts, pine nuts, black and green olives, really, really tiny croutons, pieces of chicken breast which had been cooked in curry seasoning and finally - a light balsamic vinaigrette It was accompanied by a slice of dark, very fresh and tasty bread.
Caesar Salad? |
Now fortified, we continued our stroll through the city. The old weigh house (De Waag) is now a museum (but being Monday, closed). On the outside of the building there is a large copper kettle hanging. It is said that it was from the 1400's and a man was punished for counterfeiting by being cooked in the kettle. A bit extreme, wouldn't you say? The building, however, dates from the 16th century.
All-in-all we spent a pleasant few hours visiting Deventer.
We haven't decided what we are going to do today - weather is not like yesterday. John's cold is still hanging on. I may be catching it - bummer.
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